Saturday, July 16, 2011

July 7th - Oldest Convents, Interregional Evidence, and Introduced Innovations...

Dr. Spores describing the burial ground of Yucundaa.
Crossing the alter of the ex-convento of Yucundaa, the first Dominican residence in Southern Mexico.
Dr. Lancaster honoring the those that have come before us.
Evidence of long-distance trade at Yucundaa, Pachuca (green) Obsidian from either Kaminaljuyu in Guatemala, or the mountains surrounding Mexico City.
Ceramics at Yucundaa.

Pre-Contact terrace field at the entrance to Yucundaa.

Second floor of La iglesia de san pedro y san pablo, Teposcolula
Angel with indigenous features beneath the feet of San Pedro, facade of La iglesia de san pedro y san pablo, Teposcolula
Rose in the patio with aqueduct in background, La iglesia de san pedro y san pablo, Teposcolula
Spaghetti with salsa verde appetizer, Teposcolula

The lone defender of the ruins of Yacundaa
Elite disc frieze on La casa de las cacicas with La iglesia de san pedro y san pablo in background, Teposcolula
Intrepid NEH-ers and the road to La iglesia
La iglesia de san pedro y san pablo, Capilla abierto (left), church facade (center), and the ex-convento (right), Teposcolula
mid-16th century door next to La iglesia de san pedro y san pablo, Teposcolula
Facade, La iglesia de Yanhuitlan
Zapote fruit, Nahuas labeled the peoples of Oaxaca Zapoteca as a derogatory term meaning "those who eat Zapote"

July 6th - Prehispanic Collections Museum Tours...

Fountain, Centro Cultural de Santo Domingo, Oaxaca City.
Oldest maize domestication, Guila Naquitz, Centro Cultural de Santo Domingo, Oaxaca City.
Funerary urn, Monte Alban Collection, Centro Cultural de Santo Domingo, Oaxaca City.
Ceramic jaguar-(foot)print drinking cup, Monte Alban Collection, Centro Cultural de Santo Domingo, Oaxaca City.
Piece of Teotihuacan mural in the Museo de arte prehispanico de Rufino Tamayo, Oaxaca City.
Speech scroll detail, Museo de arte prehispanico de Rufino Tamayo, Oaxaca City.
Priest of Tlazoteolt, the "Filth-Eater," Museo de arte prehispanico de Rufino Tamayo, Oaxaca City.
Great minds at work, Museo de arte prehispanico de Rufino Tamayo, Oaxaca City.

July 5th - Monte Alban, Mezcal, Mitla... mmm...

Nopal cactus with tuna fruit, Southern Platform, Monte Alban.
Craved skull with Mixtec glyphs, Museo de Monte Alban.
Baby in a bottle, Museo de Monte Alban.
Reflection in mezcal barrel, Zapata Ranch.
Mixtec/Zapotec rain/wind glyphs frieze with steeples of la Iglesia de San Pedro in background, Mitla.

Sunday, July 10, 2011

Class is in session...


July 4th -
Our first class session went very well. We stayed inside most of the day (at the Fundaciรณn Bustamante Vasconselos), and Dr. Wood and Dr. Lancaster introduced us to the program and each other. I thoroughly enjoyed a torta con tinga de pollo y queso for lunch; however, not knowing exactly what is in “tinga” meant, I was then thoroughly teased about what might be in tinga. This was my first “cart” meal at the delicious La Hormiga carta in the Parque de Paseo Juarez de Llano. My colleagues are top-shelf educators, many with decades of experience. The word “intimidating” comes to my mind. I know I will learn a lot from them, and I hope I can provide some useful knowledge to our discussions.

Learning experiences:
Dr. Wood introduced us to both Mayan hieroglyphic decoding and Nahuatl place-name glyphs.
I feel (almost) certain that I can write “chocolate” in Mayan glyphs, which is an achievement that might impress someone in the future. Needless to say, I am thoroughly excited for what is coming in our second week when the spotlight shifts to ethnographic lessons with ancient texts.
Later, Dr. Swanton, the linguistic specialist working at the Burgoa and the San Pablo libraries here in Oaxaca, described the vital role native Oaxacans are playing in maintaining their culture through language. Significantly, Swanton showed our group part of a recent video produced by one group of young Zapotecs (Beni Zaa), which was a Beni Zaa audio-dub for “An Inconvenient Truth” by Al Gore. Swanton played an excerpt from a documentary about the project, and it was wonderful to see the youth of a culture taking such an active role in maintaining their language.

Swanton brought props, specifically a type of coa or maize-planter stick traditional to the Americas, as well as an amazing palm leaf “raincoat” used by coastal Oaxacans from time immemorial (sorry, no pictures).

Questions:
In regards to some of the local indigenous language-speaking colleagues (“subject” having a derogatory connotation) he has worked with, Swanton mentioned the concept of “absolute orientation” or grounded relativity in linguistic cognitions, which he contrasted against “relative orientation.” First, I would need to do far more linguistic research than I might ever care for, but the question arises, what aspects of linguistic orientation are present in the key pre- and colonial terms I am focusing on for my thesis? Urban planning and the layout of religious or sacred structures appear to have had commonalities across Mesoamerica. What cultural linguistic significance did the indigenous terms for “temple,” “school,” and the like have in the communities that they served?
Also, Swanton described an aspect of “temporality” in Mayan. For example the English phrase “I kick the table.” Can mean the subject is in the process of kicking the object without actually completing the act; whereas in Mayan, at least with some verbs, the speaker would not use the verb unless the subject had completed the action (and actually kicked the table). I believe this is similar to what the Navajo (Dine) call “the process of becoming.” What aspects of this concept can I find in the development of a pre-Colonial indigenous student, and how did this concept complicate Colonial education?

First things, first...

July 3rd -
First day. First avocado tree. First impressions. First fireworks experience in a less controlled environment.
I landed at 7:55am, and even with no sleep from the night before I still found time to help set up the welcoming party tonight. I met our community chaperon, Berta, and her helpful and pleasant husband, Hector. Both speak little to no English, and my attempts to communicate were only slightly embarrassing for me. Berta seems like a gracious person, and while I am working here on my own, I might want to tap her for her wisdom and local knowledge. After the welcoming party, as a group, we watched a local celebration – what I called our “Tres de Julio” celebration – which included a gigantic fireworks display, full of screeching sounds, vibrant colors, and comets of firework-parts that rained freely upon us.
They know how to celebrate, here; experiencing explosions of color and sound, from a safe location – standing directly next to, or under, them.
Thank you Oaxaca, for welcoming us to your culture.

Question:
Our mezcal-punch included a rim coated with a salt (allegedly) made from ground-up worms. How did Pre- and Colonial Period Oaxaquenos include other insects into their diet?

Saturday, July 2, 2011

Going on Oaxac-about...

The adventure begins!

Everything is packed, instructions are printed off, and I will be boarding in hours. The first challenge for this month-long journey will be the six-hour layover in the Benito Juarez airport (MEX) tonight/tomorrow morning. I am very happy that I am saving money on indirect flights to Oaxaca; however, my nerves are strained just thinking of the "interesting friends" I will meet from 1am to 7am in an international airport.

A tremendous weight will be lifted off my shoulders when I finally land in Oaxaca. Then I will only face awkward first-encounters with my institute mates and the cultural-wizards whom I will be learning from over the next four weeks.

As a graduate student summer-scholar for the NEH Institute:Spotlight on Oaxaca, Summer 2011, I am expected to complete all the readings and coursework that my fellow professional educators will be expected to complete. Thus, it is not as if I will have a lack of stuff to tide me over in the airport.
Even more, I will need to continue my pre-research for the research project I will be conducting in the two weeks following the institute.

With every letter I type, I actualize (with much trepidation) the catharsis surrounding my choice to apply for, and accept, both the institute and the research grant as a first-year Master's graduate student. This will most likely be the greatest experience of my life, besides meeting my beautiful and creative wife, and, later, my precocious daughter.

Quick note on the format of this blog, the blog-matting... er... blog-struction... uh... these web-ulations (the methodological topicalities that I hope to ambulate about):
I plan to post messages and images from my time in Mexico, as well as wrestle with questions about "Mexican" history and culture. I will most likely end a posting with questions (regularly facetious) regarding Colonial Native and Latin American history, archaeology, and anthropology.

Initial question:
Was there ever a pre-Colonial Latin American travel depot, and what sort of "time-wasters" could a Nahua, Nuu Savi, Beni Zaa have done to stay awake while he/she waited for their next journey?